A gloomy day at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

The look over Glen Lake from the top of the first dune in the dune climb at Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore.

Waking up to the sound of raindrops on your tent is never a nice surprise.

Doing so Saturday morning while waking up in the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore wasn't my ideal vision of that day, but I had had worse (see 2017 Warren Dunes entry). But after some mid-morning raindrops, the skies dried and a day of haze and clouds awaited us.

A structure at the Maritime
Museum.

I spent this past weekend in Michigan's northwest corner on a spring outing with the youth group I am a leader of. After dropping our gear at the Platte River Campground, we headed out in the morning to see the sights all around the lakeshore.

While there was some rain, it cleared up in the morning, leaving Lake Michigan a hazy shadow. After trying to check out the Maritime Museum in the morning (to no avail; the museum doesn't open until Memorial Day), we headed to the spot most people think of when Sleeping Bear comes to mind: the dune climb.
throughout the day. After trying to stop in at the

I've climbed that dune several times in my life, and I always forget just far it it truly is to the waterfront. You climb the main dune starting at the base of the parking lot, thinking you'll be led to a beautiful overview of the lake. Not so. At the top of that dune is ... more dunes. You look out and see plenty more sand to trek before making it to your destination.

The Cottonwood Trail, a 1.5-mile loop.

Despite not seeing the lake on this specific climb, peaking at the plateau of the dunes is an impressive sight, and being from Michigan can jade you a little from admiring the majesty of them. A young man in the group moved to Michigan from Liberia last summer, and has gone on a few trips with us. He marveled at the dunes, continuously sending photos of them back to his friends. Seeing this young man impressed by something I've visited several times before made me realize just how special they truly are.

After an exhausting truly fun dune climb, we headed out to the trails for a hike. We headed to the Cottonwood Trail, a simple, 1.5-mile trek around the dunes and through the grasslands. This is a fairly simple hike, though does have some elevation changes and sand to trek through, so bring your best boots to move efficiently. The peak of the looping trail actually overlooks the dune climb and Glen Lake, which provides for some breathtaking views. It's not a bad hike, though it would have been better had the sun decided to come out.

As for the Platte River Campground, it's a nice group area, though parking can be challenging if sites are full like they were last weekend. You do have to walk all your gear to the site, but they are spacious and wide open, with pads for tents. Not a bad spot, I'd camp there again.

Sleeping Bear Dunes is large, so it's difficult to hit everything up in a weekend. Add on the Manitou islands and it's plenty to explore. But hiking up a dune climb hit just the spot on a gloomy Saturday in northwest Michigan. If you're in the Traverse City area, be sure to hit it up.

Dune hike.

The dunes in northwest Michigan are spectacular.

Time to celebrate Michigan's National Park Service locations

The shores of Lake Michigan as seen from the sand dunes on South Manitou Island, part of
Sleeping Bear National Lakeshore. The lakeshore is one of seven sites in Michigan
administered by the National Park Service.

Everyone is celebrating the National Park Service's 100th anniversary today. This date in 1916, Woodrow Wilson created what is now the National Park Service, which oversees America's biggest national treasures.

Here in Michigan, we don't have as many managed NPS sites as some other states. Out of the 59 national parks, only one is located in Michigan. Six other sites overseen by the NPS are located in the state (There are several designations of national park facilities for a reason. Here's a list of why some places are national parks, some are national lakeshores, etc). There are other "national" outdoors areas, such as the Huron National Forest, though those are managed by other entities like the U.S. Forest Service.

During my several decades of exploration as a child and adult, I've been to six of them (well, maybe seven. More at the bottom):

Isle Royale National Park

The sight of Isle Royale in 2005.

Michigan's lone national park is the least-visited one in the Lower 48, seeing only 20,000 visitors a year. It's up there as one of my favorite visited ones in the United States, spending a week there back in 2005. A boat ride of four hours from the Keweenaw Peninsula to the island in the middle of Lake

Superior granted us access to one of the biggest adventures of my life. Waking up next to an inland lake and seeing a moose bathing is a sight you don't soon forget. It's a park I highly recommend visiting if you have time.

Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore and the North Country National Scenic Trail

Another top-notch location in Michigan's Upper Peninsula, Pictured Rocks is easier to access if you don't want to spend four hours on a boat. Here, there are more than 50 miles of trail, much of it making up the North Country Trail throughout the lakeshore area. I backpacked this stretch in 2006,
going from Grand Marais to Munising. It's a park that has a wide range of sights, including massive sand dunes in the eastern part and beautiful rock formations in the western part.

The North Country Trail, mentioned above, traverses through several states from New York to North Dakota. Running along the western side of the Lower Peninsula before entering the Upper Peninsula, it travels a length of more than 4,600 miles once completed.

Keweenaw National Historical Park
This is a park I know I've visited, but it would have been about 20 years ago on a family vacation as a child, and I honestly don't remember a lot of it. It's one I'd like to go back to and appreciate a bit more as an adult. This area focused more on history of the peninsula on Lake Superior, especially the copper industry that was so important to Michigan for many years.

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore
Located in the northwest portion of the Lower Peninsula, this is a popular spot for so many Michigan residents. It's garnered national attention in the last five years, being named the most beautiful place in the U.S. by Good Morning America in 2011. The dunes are wonderful, yes, though my favorite part of this lakeshore isn't as easily accessible. South Manitou Island, which can be reached after a 90-minute boat ride through Lake Michigan. This island has its own sand dunes, along with giant cedar trees and shipwrecks along the coast. I've been here multiple times, the most recent being 2010.

The one-room schoolhouse in Westland built by Henry Ford.

Motor Cities National Heritage Area
This is one I've been in my entire life, but never realized its existence until just a few months ago. This isn't a specific area per se, but covers several spots in Southeast Michigan important to the development of the automotive industry. These sites have markers at several locations, including near a one-room schoolhouse built by Henry Ford in Westland (soon to be in Livonia) and areas that attracted Detroiters for recreation near Walled Lake in Novi.

River Raisin National Battlefield Park
This is the lone NPS site in Michigan I've yet to have gone to. Located near Monroe on the shores of Lake Erie, this location commemorates the battles that took place there during the War of 1812, where the area was taken captive by the British. This location joined the NPS recently, being placed under its authority in 2010.

Wild card: Mackinac National Park
While not a national park today, most of Michigan's Mackinac Island was once a national park, the second one in the union after Yellowstone. Mackinac Island became a national park in 1875 and was transferred back to the State of Michigan 20 years later when it became a state park.  That designation remains today. It's an island I've been to a few times, though I'd like to go back.The island is worth a visit, not just for the natural scenery, but for the culture, the history, and, if you're into it, the fudge.

What's your favorite national park site in Michigan? 

Looking ahead to 2014, several local trips on the radar

Reviewing my post from earlier this year on where I'd like to go in 2013, I realized only one of those trips actually happened. It happens, but with less vacation time this year because of a trip with my new wife to Hawaii, I suppose it was bound to happen. And no, I don't regret going to Hawaii. Fantastic place to visit.

Going forward, with less planned on my calendar in 2014, here's hoping I can find a way to visit a few other sites that I haven't seen or it's been a while since I was last there. I've got some places I plan to see, what I'd like to see and what I probably won't see.

What I plan on seeing

Island Lake State Recreation Area

This is an annual trip, but it's one I enjoy so much that I've practically gone every year for the last 15

Here's hoping there's snow this year.

years. Usually in the third weekend in January, the weekend consists of sledding, cross-country skiing and tobogganing, as long as the weather holds up its end of the bargain with providing snow.

Combine the winter activities with a group of great people and some tasty eats, and it's a trip. The backwoods cabins tucked in the back of the park make for that up-north feel when you're only in Livingston County. No electricity inside means lanterns light your way. The sounds of snowmobiles and mountain bikes come through the brush along the trail. It's a great place in the winter.

Tahquamenon Falls State Park

It's been almost 10 years since I last visited this park with the same group, but they are planning on returning for a weekend trip in May. The falls are a spectacular view and visiting Lake Superior is something I always long for, with it being my favorite Great Lake.

For a weekend trip, Tahquamenon Falls is a lengthy drive, but will hopefully be worth it. Seeing the shipwreck museum near Whitefish Point is something I enjoy seeing, and hiking in the spring will be a new experience for me up there.

What I'd like to see

Sunset near Oscoda.

Michigan's Sunrise Coast
I was able to make it to Oscoda this past summer for a long weekend, but there's no guarantee that I'll
make it up there again this year. I've spent many summers driving the stretch of US-23 along the eastern coast of Michigan's Lower Peninsula and find it more fulfilling than visiting the west coast of the state. It's less crowded and there are more hidden gems to find.

Bay City State Park

It's been several years since I went to Bay City State Park when I lived in Bay City, but going back to view the Saginaw Bay is up there on my list. While it might not be the cleanest water, the view is great and it's located nearby Bay City, a town I really enjoyed living in, albeit for four months.

Grand Haven State Park

The pier at Grand Haven.

I've been here several times, the last being in 2012. The pier is beautiful and the walk along it to the lighthouse is well worth it to see the view of Lake Michigan. Watching the boats come into the harbor on the Grand River is beautiful. One of my favorite places in the entire state.

Places I probably won't see

Mackinac Island

It's been several years since visiting Mackinac Island, and this year will probably be no exception. While I've wanted to take my wife north of the Mackinac Bridge, with costs and other life events getting in the way, I don't see a trip to Mackinac Island in the future. But it would be nice.

Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

Another wonderful place to visit, especially off-season. I don't envision a trip here this year, but it's always great to dream. I've been to the dunes several times, and always enjoy exploring the park and the surrounding area near Traverse City. But probably not this year.

Port Crescent/Sleeper State Park

It's been many, many years since my last trip up here, but it's a place I've talked about going for three years now with a good friend of mine. There's not much at the tip of the Thumb, but the view of Lake Huron is great and I've heard Port Austin is a quaint town.


Is there another area I should explore this year? I'd love to hear some suggestions, I'm always looking for new places to explore.

Seven Wonders of Michigan: How many are natural, and how many man-made?

Last week, the Detroit Free Press (and later, my employer, the Observer and Eccentric) posted a survey asking for the Seven Wonders of Michigan: a list of the top seven "wonders" of the great state.

The newspapers are looking for the greatest "wonders" of the state, ranging from natural beauty to man-made feats. It got me thinking for quite a while, what were the most impressive sights in the state?

Here's a list of mine I came up with, and they include several sights in the state's outdoors. It's not anything etched in stone: these are just some ideas I came up with in the last several days while thinking about this premise:

1. The Mackinac Bridge

The "Mighty Mac," as many Michiganders refer to the
bridge as.

While not a natural feature, it conquers one of the toughest natural features the state has: the Straits of Mackinac. Built in 1957, it's the third-longest suspension bridge in the world, going five miles across the straits connecting Mackinaw City in the Lower Peninsula with St. Ignace in the Upper Peninsula, and is the only connection between the two peninsulas of the state.

It's an incredible feat, and save for a few accidents that take place on the bridge in recent years, it's a remarkable gateway to the north part of the state. I've crossed it more than a dozen times, and it's always a bit nerve-wracking crossing it.

It's a modern engineering feat, and is definitely one of the main symbols of the state people associated with Michigan. It's an easy No. 1.

2. Isle Royale National Park

This is my favorite place in the entire state, having spent a week there back in 2005. Remote, quiet and gorgeous, this is a national park that tops most of the others I've seen.

Hiking along the Greenstone Trail back in 2005.

Only accessible by boat or seaplane, the island is a solitary landmass in the middle of Lake Superior, lying closer to Canada than the United States. Rich full of moose, wolves, lakes and mountains, the
island is a hikers paradise. Hiking along the Greenstone Ridge is the main means of moving along the island by foot, and many of the campsites provide ample shelter for travelers, Chicken Bone Lake excluded. That site was a miserable night in the sun.

The island was a hotbed of mining activity in the late 1800s and early 1900s, and signs of that activity can still be seen in the form of mineshafts that dot the island. While hiking, one must be careful not to come too close to these mineshafts, or down you go.

Not only is the island a beautiful, tranquil place to spend some time, it also has the only place I've ever found on Lake Superior to be a warm location for swimming: Moskey Basin on the east side of the island.

3. Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

Me pumping water from Lake Superior
at Pictured Rocks back in 2006.

Another wonder of the state that lies within the Upper Peninsula, Pictured Rocks is a unique set of rocks along the shore of Lake Superior between Grand Marais and Munising. With about 15 miles of coastline with the picturesque rocks that give the park its name, it's a long hike between ends of the park, and a rewarding one.

I spent nearly a week at the park and hiked the entire Lakeshore Trail, which is part of the North Country Trail, which spans from New York to the Dakotas. The views near the both ends of the trail are breathtaking: the rocks, such as Miners Castle (even after one of the turrets fell shortly before I was there in 2006), and the sand dunes near Grand Marais, where loggers used the sand to run logs down to Lake Superior.

We backpacked the entire trail when I was wrapping up in the Boy Scouts, spending 5 days doing 50 miles. Definitely a challenging hike, but worth it. There are plenty of stops along the way, including a multitude of caves along the lakeshore.

While it's not as remote as Isle Royale, it's got some spots that are definitely worth seeing. There's a reason this is the national park that's going on Michigan's national park quarter in 2018.

4. Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

Yet another up north staple that is one of the wonders of Michigan. Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore composes a lot of land. While the dunes are wonderful to visit and see, my favorite portion of the park has to be South Manitou Island.

The shore of Lake Michigan along South Manitou Island.
It's a gorgeous place to visit.

I've been going to Sleeping Bear Dunes for years, with it being a popular vacation spot for the family, for church and the scouts. The dunes are a fun thing to climb, but I'm partial to the dunes on South Manitou.

There are plenty of attractions to see on South Manitou Island, including the shipwreck Francisco Morazan, a freighter that wrecked off the coast of the island and is clearly visible above the water. A grove of giant oak trees is nearby, an impressive sight with some of the biggest oak trees you've ever seen.

The islands have history lessons as well: it was one of the best agricultural spots for growing crops such as wheat, and features of its agricultural past are all over the island.

The dunes are wonderful, no doubt, but I'm partial to the islands. I've yet to make it to North Manitou Island, but I hear it's just as good.

5. Michigan Stadium

I get away from a natural setting for wonder No. 5 for one of the biggest structures in the state. It's hard to think of many manmade items, such I lean toward the outdoors. But Michigan Stadium is quite the
sight and well deserving as a wonder of Michigan (the state, not the school).

It's quite the view at Michigan Stadium on game day.

I've only been once, to watch my beloved CMU Chippewas play Michigan back in 2006 (which, apparently was the first-ever weather delayed game in the stadium's history. Nonetheless, my alma mater lost). The stadium has hosted more than 100,000 people every game since 1975, and hosted the largest audience for a game when Michigan played Notre Dame in 2011.

It's an incredible scene, sitting in an area that has more people that the city the stadium resides in, Ann Arbor. The students get into it, and the city completely transforms on football Saturdays. It's one reason I always tried to avoid the city on game days when I worked in Washtenaw County.

A game at the stadium is worth going to. Be sure to make it to Ann Arbor this fall, I hear there's a chance for redemption later this month.

6. Grand Haven State Park beach

There are so many beaches in the state that could qualify on this list. The one down US-31, at Holland State Park, is a good one too. But there's just something about the the beach at Grand Haven that truly
captures beauty.

The pier is one of my favorite sights on the western side
of Michigan.

I've gone to the beach at Grand Haven a handful of times, including when I worked in Grand Rapids several years ago and a trip last year in the summer. The pier is one of the more picturesque views in the city, which lays on the Lake Michigan coast. Walking along it, it leads you to the lighthouse at the end, another wonderful sight. The end of the Grand River emptying into the lake provides a wide channel for boats to come in and out from the lake, and the memorials to the Coast Guard are a sight to see as well.

The state park on the beach is always packed, so I have no clue how anyone gets a reservation. It's got no shade, but the campsites lay right on the beach, so at least there's a breeze most days.

If you're looking for that nice, long pier walk, Grand Haven State Park is the right place to go.

7. National Shrine of Cross in the Woods

Here's a bit of a wild card, but I thought it was unique enough to add to the list. I visited this sight back in 2006 coming home from a camping trip in Indian River.

The cross was labeled a national shrine back in 2006.

The crucifix is the largest one in the world, with the figure of Jesus standing at 31 feet tall, cast in iron. It's nestled nicely among the greenery at the Catholic shrine, and is quite the sight.

Sculpted by the same man who did the Spirit of Detroit, Marshall Fredericks, it took him several years to form the sculpture before it was erected in Indian River. Now, it attracts people of all sects, including many non-Catholics. It's worth a visit just to see the shrine, and is a little bit different than the others on this list, but still worthy of being a wonder.

What other items deserve to be on this list? You can vote in the Free Press's or on the Observer and Eccentric's website until next week.

My top five outdoors destinations in Michigan

I saw a post on the Pure Michigan blog earlier this week that got me thinking: it asked readers for the top five cities to visit in Michigan for a native New Yorker now living in Ann Arbor. Naturally, cities such as Detroit, Grand Rapids, Frankenmuth, etc., popped up, and I threw in my two cents as well.

But what about the top five outdoors spots in Michigan?

The following list is the one I came up with:


5. Island Lake State Recreation Area/Kensington Metropark

Sorry I brought up snow, I'll tell it to go away now.

This is a surprise on the list, but it's not for its summer activities. Island Lake and Kensington are great for the winter, complete with trails for hiking, biking, cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, you name it. Island Lake is practically empty during this time, and the two rustic cabins in the park make for a great weekend, something I've done for years.

The sledding and tobogganing hills in Kensington are tall and steep, and make for a great afternoon of fun in the snow.

Now, let's stop talking about winter, and move on to the warmer spots, such as...


4. South Manitou Island

I've been fortunate enough to travel here three times, and have spent two nights sleeping at Weather Station campground. The island, park of Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, takes about 90 minutes to get to, but is full of sights to keep you busy.

This photo doesn't begin to capture how big these dunes
really are off the island's coast.

The lighthouse is stunning, especially if you're able to climb up the tower and look out onto Lake Michigan. The sand dunes on the opposite side of the island are majestic, and stretch high above the lakeshore. They're so tall, you can roll a rock down them and it becomes a game.

The shipwreck of the Francisco Morazan, along with the grove of giant cedars makes this island worth the boat ride.

Speaking of boat rides...


3. Round Island

(Flickr photo by hatchski)

Not your typical destination point. The island, which lies in the Straits of Mackinac, can only be reached through a charter boat; no docks exist, so you have to climb into the water of the straits to reach land.

But once you make it, it doesn't get more rustic than that. When I went in 2003, we were the only ones on the island. No designated campsites, just wherever you could find a place to pitch camp. We (of course) chose the beach, facing Mackinac Island. I still remember sitting at the campfire at dusk, watching the fog and freighters roll in. One of the most vivid memories I have is seeing the row of lights from atop the Grand Hotel as the night got darker. Truly a beautiful sight.

Other places have unique views as well, including...


2. Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore

The dunes, they speak
for themselves.

This is a given, especially if you've hiked the entire Lakeshore Trail like I did with my old Scout troop in 2006. The entire 50 miles is lined with breathtaking views, from the rock sculptures near Munising to  the sand dunes closer to Grand Marais.

The dunes especially have captured my imagination since I left. The view topped that of Sleeping Bear, which I didn't think possible. Loggers used to use the dunes to slide logs down them to Lake Superior, and it's clear why.

The trail, part of the North Country Trail, is windy, and includes beaches. It's a sight to see.

You get a great mix with Pictured Rocks, and you can choose how intense you want to be. You can hike the whole thing with a pack on your back, or you can camp in your RV and walk to the beach every day.

My No. 1 place, however, you can't do that so easily...


1. Isle Royale National Park

It doesn't get any better than this.

This island is the goal of many outdoorsmen here in Michigan. This is the gem of Michigan, which we all can thank Ben Franklin for.

It lies 54 miles off the coast of the Keweenaw Peninsula, and takes more than 3 hours to get to. But the trip is unforgettable, which is why I featured recently in a Flashback Friday post in July.

It's what natural life is all about. Pump all your own water, carry all of your food, swim in the coldest lake I've ever been in. It's all about survival, and seeing an ecosystem recovering from copper mining.

Old mine shafts still dot the island, and one wrong step and you'll fall. Landmarks such as Daisy Farm, Chickenbone Lake and Moskey Basin make up the isle with the backbone of the Greenstone Ridge.

Wildlife is beautiful and unique. From loons to moose to wolves, you'll see animals you won't see on Michigan's mainland.

It truly is tops when it comes to the outdoors. The people I've spoken to that are outdoorsmen crave the island, and have waited years to travel there. I was lucky enough to go when I was 17, and I've never regretted it.

What do you think of my list? What locations would you include?

First trip of the year: backpacking Sand Lakes Quiet Area near Kalkaska

It's been an annual unofficial kickoff to the summer season every year since I was 10: The May camping trip with the Christian Service Brigade from St. David's Episcopal Church in Southfield. I've learned much of my outdoors skills not from the Boy Scouts, but from this group, which routinely went on trips tougher than most of the ones we did in Scouts.

Even after graduating college, I still can't get away from this group, as it's been so important to my growing up. And with the opportunity to travel still, why not continue?

This year's planned trip was to be completed as a backpacking trip to Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, but with the size of our group and the limited number of reservations at the Lake Michigan dunes, we settled for a smaller chain of lakes I had not heard of before called Sand Lakes Quiet Area.

Our trip started right outside Guernsey Lake, where we crashed Friday night after arriving. The next morning, we caught the picturesque view of the lake in the early hours of the day.

Here, my friend Adam ended up finding the first of his many wild creatures of the trip: a small goldfinch that had difficulty flying. He stood in Adam's hand shaking before he took him into the woods.


After hiking about 2.5 miles (part of which is part of the North Country Trail) to our campsite at Lake No. 2 - the lakes didn't have names, just numbers - a few of us went out to explore what was at the other lakes. After climbing up an old fire trail, we stopped to check for directions, which one of the men I learned much about the outdoors showed us the proper way to interpret this map:



Walking up the path (while, unfortunately, I began to feel slightly dehydrated), we stumbled across Lake No. 4, which had no campers and was quite tranquil.

After crashing the night in a makeshift campsite, complete with fire, beef stew made from summer sausage and (unfortunately) a little rain, we left the next morning and hiked a mile back to the car.

It was nice to see a new area of Michigan, even though it wasn't as exciting as some of the other places along bigger lakes. It was a good hike for the beginning backpackers in our group, not too long with a good mix of inclines, and no set campsites. If Sleeping Bear Dunes is unavailable, this was a nice, but smaller, alternative.